PC takes very long to switch on

[diegol]

For energy saving matters, I tend to turn my PC off, then disconnect the power source so some elements (eg the keyboard and the optical mouse) won't waste electricity.

About a year ago, when I connected the power again I noticed that I must wait about 1 minute before I can turn my computer on. Like it has to stock up on energy before being able to initialize.

This waiting time has shot up since then and I must now wait several minutes before I can attempt to switch it on. I would guess there's some component that must accumulate energy and this thing is not working properly, but that's just as far as my ignorance can get me.

Does this behaviour ring a bell?

[viking33]

For energy saving matters, I tend to turn my PC off, then disconnect the power source so some elements (eg the keyboard and the optical mouse) won't waste electricity.

About a year ago, when I connected the power again I noticed that I must wait about 1 minute before I can turn my computer on. Like it has to stock up on energy before being able to initialize.

This waiting time has shot up since then and I must now wait several minutes before I can attempt to switch it on. I would guess there's some component that must accumulate energy and this thing is not working properly, but that's just as far as my ignorance can get me.

Does this behaviour ring a bell?

Doesn't ring any bells but is this a desktop or a laptop PC?
Do you have it plugged into a UPS ( uninterruptible power supply ) unit or directly into the AC wall outlet?
I really can't think of anything that would have to "stock up or accumulate energy" before turning on.
Could you also explain what you mean by having to wait several minutes before you can ATTEMPT to switch it on?

[diegol]

Hi Viking!

Sorry, it is a desktop PC. No UPS.

Could you also explain what you mean by having to wait several minutes before you can ATTEMPT to switch it on?

I don't attempt to turn it on until a few minutes have elapsed from the moment I "turn on" the extension lead which feeds the PC and its peripherals simply because I know (by last year's experience) that pushing the power-on button won't work. As if the thing were dead.

Just in case I wasn't very clear, it is not a boot-up problem, but a switch-on problem. After I turn on my PC the regular BIOS check takes place and WinXP boots alright, no other strange behaviour from there on. No problem shutting down either.

[viking33]

Hi Viking!

Sorry, it is a desktop PC. No UPS.

Could you also explain what you mean by having to wait several minutes before you can ATTEMPT to switch it on?

I don't attempt to turn it on until a few minutes have elapsed from the moment I "turn on" the extension lead which feeds the PC and its peripherals simply because I know (by last year's experience) that pushing the power-on button won't work. As if the thing were dead.

Just in case I wasn't very clear, it is not a boot-up problem, but a switch-on problem. After I turn on my PC the regular BIOS check takes place and WinXP boots alright, no other strange behaviour from there on. No problem shutting down either.

So you have it connected to some sort of "extension cord" with a power strip for multiple outlets? Sorry, just trying to visualize your setup.

[Bigaldoc]

Like Bob, I've never heard of this problem before, Diegol. I can't imagine that there's a component inside the PC that has to "warm up" before it will start but stranger things have happened I guess.

Just for curiosity, since I can't answer the question, have you tried HOLDING in the power button when you try the turn on? On my Dell the button must be held for a couple or three seconds before the machine reacts to it.

[diegol]

So you have it connected to some sort of "extension cord" with a power strip for multiple outlets? Sorry, just trying to visualize your setup.

No problem, my English is not so good. Rather the converse, sorry for the time loss in trying to get things right. This the device my PC & peripherals are connected to, whatever its name (maybe "masterplug"?):



It has an on-off switch/key which I use to stop feeding electricity after shutting down my PC.

[BobH]

Hello Diego!

Like BigAl, I've never encountered this problem. You might try changing where the computer is plugged in if you can. Or you might try checking the voltage, amperage on the line.

Many laptops have battery conserving features including sleep or hibernate modes. In my experience, the switches on some of them require extra time to make the systems wake up, but it is only a couple of seconds.

Is this a brand and model we would all recognize? You mentioned WinXP - is it at SP3 level? Are the updates current?

[BobH]

Your English is excellent, my friend.

We would call that a "power strip" in the States.

[diegol]

Hi Al!

Just for curiosity, since I can't answer the question, have you tried HOLDING in the power button when you try the turn on? On my Dell the button must be held for a couple or three seconds before the machine reacts to it.

I don't recall doing that, but it's not the way it's supposed to be. When I bought the computer 2.5 years ago it worked normally, no need to hold the button down.

However, if one wants to shut the system down promptly, overriding Windows' Start | Shut down / Alt+F4 steps, one DOES have to hold the button down and that's the way it has always worked (I think it is a good idea to prevent inadvertently pushing the button and losing one's work, as it was the case with older models -motherboards?-).

Anyway I will give your suggestion a try. One never knows!

[diegol]

Hi Bob!

Like BigAl, I've never encountered this problem. You might try changing where the computer is plugged in if you can. Or you might try checking the voltage, amperage on the line.

I will try that. I wouldn't think it's the line that's causing the trouble, however, since the waiting time until being able to turn my PC on has grown steadily, smoothly over the last year. I am not an electrician, but if the problem had to do with the line wearing out in a similar fashion, that would sound strange to me.

Is this a brand and model we would all recognize? You mentioned WinXP - is it at SP3 level? Are the updates current?

These are the specs:
- Motherboard: Gigabyte GA VM900M
- CPU: Intel Core 2 Duo
- Hard Drives: 2 x 160 GB SATA II
- RAM: DDR2 2 GB 667
- Misc.: 3 1/2 floppy drive, DVD Burner, Viewsonic 17" LCD monitor.

I have WinXP at SP2 level (just as it was when I bought the computer). Why would it matter? I think this is not at all a software-related issue.

[Bigaldoc]

I tend to agree with you Diegol, that it isn't a software related problem since Windows is nowhere near active when you press the power button. But, as I've said, I'm scratching my head and can't come up with a reason, other than YOUR supposition that it could be a failing power supply or some other component INSIDE the computer. Wow, this could be a tough one to track down if that's the case. Might almost be cheaper to buy a new PC, but pretend I didn't say that.

[BobH]

I tend to agree with you Diegol, that it isn't a software related problem since Windows is nowhere near active when you press the power button. But, as I've said, I'm scratching my head and can't come up with a reason, other than YOUR supposition that it could be a failing power supply or some other component INSIDE the computer. Wow, this could be a tough one to track down if that's the case. Might almost be cheaper to buy a new PC, but pretend I didn't say that.

Yes! I agree that it is not software related. It has become a reflex response for me in gathering information. I should discipline myself more.

My (very uninformed) guess is that you have a power supply going bad. Try googling for "PSU failure" and see if you find anything that describes the problems you are experiencing. I'm no electronics expert nor electrician; but if your power source doesn't include electronics, as do UPS units, my next suspicion - following the path of the electrons - is the power supply unit itself. Perhaps there are capacitors within the power supply that are somehow 'leaking' their charge which must be built back to a level to allow the flow of electrons. From my limited experience, switches perform in a binary manner: they either work or fail. They don't work slowly. Remember this is only a guess.

If it is the power supply unit, I can tell you from recent experience that it can easily be replaced. The PSU on my older Dell desktop began making very loud fan noises. I bought a new, higher capacity output PSU made by Ultra and replaced it myself. Repeat, I'm no electronics or electrical whiz. The cost was about $60US, but it could have been purchased for less. The replacement only required unplugging some cables, unscrewing the screws holding the module, installing the new unit, and reconnecting the cables.

[diegol]

My (very uninformed) guess is that you have a power supply going bad. Try googling for "PSU failure" and see if you find anything that describes the problems you are experiencing. I'm no electronics expert nor electrician; but if your power source doesn't include electronics, as do UPS units, my next suspicion - following the path of the electrons - is the power supply unit itself. Perhaps there are capacitors within the power supply that are somehow 'leaking' their charge which must be built back to a level to allow the flow of electrons. From my limited experience, switches perform in a binary manner: they either work or fail. They don't work slowly. Remember this is only a guess.

I think you may be right. Before your last reply, I had found this thread, which relates to a flat-panel TV, but these users' problem is exactly the same as mine, and the answer seems to be: PSU with capacitors gone bad.

Our Samsung model # LN-T405 HA would click up to 30 minutes or more before finally turning on. Called a repairman in Tallahassee, FL. He said it would take $185 to $300 and 8 days to fix it. Read posts at several forums and did the fix. Laid the TV face down, undid all the screws on the back, seperated the back and removed it. The power board had 7 screws, unpluged the cables running to it and removed it. The 2 big (physically big) capacitors were bulging at the top. Interesting to note they were marked only 10 volt and all the smaller ones were marked 25 volt! Turned the board over, heated the solder joints (small soldering iron) and removed them. They read 2200uF, 105 degrees centigrade,10 volt. Radio Shack's radial capacitors go no higher than 1000 uF. Could not find a replacement anywhere in Tallahassee. Googled several electrical component sores. Allied Electronics in Largo FL had lots of them in 25 volt! Their part # is 852-7038. It's a bit larger but fits fine. Their phone # is (800)433-5700. Had them overnight 2 to me. They sent 3, one for a backup. These things are cheap at about 80 cents a piece, the third one they included free. Put them in, an easy fix. Plugged in all power cables, put the back on, handed the remote to the wife (she's a big football fan and it was mid-season), she hit the power button, one click and the TV came on! I got a hug and didn't have to wash dishes that night. No problems since.

I could not find anything similar under your suggested "PSU failure", but I am pretty sure it has to do with bad PSU capacitors. I have to work with my computer this evening, but next weekend I'll open the case and see what lurks inside.

Everyone, thank you very much! I'll keep you posted.

[viking33]

As BobH said, PSUs are really inexpensive these days. If you don't have a local source for them, I would recommend MCM Electronics on-line. They do ship international and are an excellent source of not only computer components but also a broad line electronics parts vendor.
Just make sure you get the PSU that is meant for your system. I'm GUESSING it's an ATX version.

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/category/ ... 0000000497" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[BobH]

Here's a place to start, Diego!

http://pcsupport.about.com/od/toolsofth ... lytest.htm

Keep googling. You'll find other sites.

[diegol]

Hi there,

Back after a while with the report. I could finally get round to removing the case last Saturday, unscrewed the power source open, and saw a couple of capacitors with some stains, very similar to rust, on their heads.

Then I came up with lots of similar images in Google searches (take this one as an example) and "confirmed" what my intuition suggested.

Next step, I took the PC to a technician who charged ARS 110 (pesos argentinos, roughly USD 30) to have the capacitors replaced, as he said the source was very good and he didn't have another one quite as good (good to find an honest guy out there).

Now everything works fine! Thanks everyone for your support.